Famous South African designer speaks to Linea Academy Students

Linea Academy was privileged this week with an address by one of SA’s leading designers, Ms. Leigh Schubert, who has built an international reputation for her modern classic ready-to-wear garments. Schubert was the first South African to participate in the 2009 Rosemount Australian Fashion Week, where her collection was so well-received that she is poised to enter the Australian retail market.

Whilst most designers are consolidating their business strategies to ride out the global economic slow-down, Schubert is applying her notable commercial acumen, prominent label and dedication to excellence in quality, style and service to grow her business. “These results are an accumulation of hard work, perseverance and planning,” she explained to Linea students, who were captivated by her elegance and penetrating insights around succeeding in the local and worldwide fashion industry.

Having won numerous awards, including the Durban Designer Collections in the Invited Design category in 2002, two nominations for the Marie Claire Prix de Excellence Best Emerging Designer, and bagging the latter title in 2006, Schubert has also participated in several South African Fashion Week events to great acclaim. Her advice to the students was to “have a vision, develop your business strategy and keep to your goals, no matter what setbacks you may encounter along the way”.

“Unless you have the financial backing to launch your own label after graduating from Linea Academy, I would recommend entering the industry through any route to gain invaluable knowledge, experience and contacts while working towards developing your own brand,” she said.

Being an independent designer is extremely hard work, but it brings both creative and commercial rewards. Schubert sees participation in fashion events and grabbing every opportunity as an emerging designer to showcase and market oneself is very important, but the glamour, media coverage and PR must be backed by a solid business premise and strategy. She said that weak business plans were the primary shortcoming for many talented emerging designers, who tend to assume that a mere presence in a Fashion Week would guarantee a stream of business.

“Fashion Weeks are a great platform, but every emerging designer must focus on follow-up with consistent marketing, and this can only be done by the individual designer.” Schubert warned that winning awards isn’t everything. “It’s about learning from others, watching what others are doing, getting ideas, analyzing proven marketing, branding and communication methods and adapting these to your own business formula. Think about why you’ve chosen fashion as a career – passion, creativity and a long-held dream must be strengthened with an understanding that fashion is about selling your designs and sustaining a viable business model.”

She observed that consumers are extremely astute and know what they want. Designers should not assume that what they think are great designs will appeal to the critical mass needed to make production feasible. “You need thorough knowledge of your target market, and this entails studying consumer and fashion trends as well as business books. Research is crucial in developing a long-lasting brand that is continually innovative and commercially workable. If you begin to sell to boutiques, listen to the boutique owners; they know their customer base, so adapt your designs to that particular market.”

Within this framework, however, Schubert believes in breaking boundaries. This might seem contradictory, but she explained it with examples such as complementing designs with accessories and embellishments, as well as establishing contacts within the industry and especially with magazines, which is another platform for presenting designs to the wider market.

Schubert concluded that there were abundant opportunities for achievement within the fashion world, but that only the fortunate few can triumph overnight. “This industry is tough, and to be successful you need to be energetic and focused. You have to multi-task, meet deadlines and maintain high performance in creating and selling your ranges. However, it is probably one of the most rewarding careers, especially when you see people wearing a design that you have conceived and marketed.”

Leigh Schubert’s garments are stocked throughout South Africa. Her Durban show-room is based at The Courtyard, 40 Marriott Road, Morningside.
Telephone: 031-309 3999

Photographs courtesy of fashion photographer Mr. Marlon Nero:

Cell: 084 4595125